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Key Ingredients

Other Ingredients

Also-called: Aqua | What-it-does: solvent

A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structured silicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). Similar to lớn other silicones, it gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. 

It's often combined with the non-volatile (i.e. stays on the skin) dimethicone as the two together form a water-resistant, breathable protective barrier on the skin without a negative tacky feel.

Also-called: Octinoxate, Octyl Methoxycinnamate | What-it-does: sunscreen | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

Butylene glycol, or let’s just Gọi it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product.  

BG’s main job is usually to lớn be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to lớn absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin.

It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned sánh far by anyone (at least not that we know about). BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. BTW, it’s also a food additive. 

Also-called: Octyl Salicylate, Octisalate | What-it-does: sunscreen | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

What-it-does: sunscreen | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1

A clear, colorless, almost odorless oil that spreads nicely and easily and gives a velvet dry skin feel. It is good friends with sunscreen agents and helps to lớn solubilize them. Also, it makes sunscreens feel lighter and spread easier. 

A clear, colorless liquid that works as a solvent and viscosity decreasing ingredient. It also has great skin-moisturizing abilities. 

Titanium Dioxide is one of the two members of the elite sunscreen group called physical sunscreens (or inorganic sunscreens if you’re a science geek and want to lớn be precise).

Traditionally, UV-filters are categorized as either chemical or physical. The big difference is supposed to lớn be that chemical agents absorb UV-light while physical agents reflect it lượt thích a bunch of mini umbrellas on top of the skin. While this categorization is easy and logical it turns out it's not true. A recent, năm nhâm thìn study shows that inorganic sunscreens work mostly by absorption, just lượt thích chemical filters, and only a little bit by reflection (they vì thế reflect the light in the visible spectrum, but mostly absorb in the UV spectrum).

We don't have mô tả tìm kiếm for this ingredient yet.

A silicone emulsifier that helps water and silicone oils to lớn mix nicely together. It can also be used together with plant oil + silicone oil mixtures. 

What-it-does: emollient | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1

An organic derivative of hectorite clay, Disteardimonium Hectorite is used as a viscosity controller - it thickens up formulations to lớn make them less runny.

It’s most popular use in cosmetics is in sunscreens, under the trademarked name Bentone 38 from Elementis. According to lớn the manufacturer info, it is a real multi-tasker, including the ability to lớn prevent pigments settling during storage, stabilizing a formula for longer, creating a light and smooth skin feel and enhancing the water-resistance of sunscreen formulas. 
 

Also-called: Vitamin E Acetate | What-it-does: antioxidant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

A helper ingredient that is used as a bulking and viscosity controlling agent. It is also an emulsion stabilizer in water-in-oil emulsions, where water droplets are dispersed in the continuous oil phase and not the other way round.

It can also be used as a heat generating agent in water-less formulas as it has an instant heat-generating chemical reaction with water. 

Porous spherical microbeads (tiny little balls) that can give an elegant silky texture to lớn the products. They are also used to scatter light to lớn reduce the look of fine lines on the skin, as well as to lớn absorb excess oil and give a matt finish. 

A silicone fluid that gives a nonoily, easy to lớn spread emolliency to the formulas. It is also used as a water repellent additive and to lớn reduce the tackiness and stickiness of other ingredients. It also imparts gloss, softness and better manageability to lớn hair.

Officially, CosIng (the official EU ingredient database) lists Aluminum Hydroxide 's functions as opacifying (making the product white and non-transparent), as well as emollient and skin protectant.

However, with a little bit of digging, it turns out Aluminum Hyroxide often moonlights as a protective coating for UV filter superstar Titanium Dioxide. Specifically, it protects our skin from the harmful effects of nasty Reactive Oxygen Species (free radicals derived from oxygen such as Superoxide and Hydrogen Peroxide) generated when Titanium Dioxide is exposed to lớn UV light. Btw, chlorine in swimming pool water depletes this protective coating, sánh one more reason to lớn reapply your sunscreen after a dip in the pool on holiday.

Other phàn nàn that, Aluminum Hydroxide also often shows up in composite pigment technologies where it is used the other way around (as the base material and not as the coating material) and helps to lớn achieve higher color coverage with less pigment. 

We don't have mô tả tìm kiếm for this ingredient yet.

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Bearing a close relationship to lớn the famous Dimethicone, Methicone is the slightly trimmed down version missing the methyl (-CH3)  groups on one side of the silicone chain. Like most silicones, it has nice emollient properties and improves the spreadability of products.

But Methicone's main thing in practice is not being an emollient but a silicone fluid for hydrophobization treatment of powders, i.e. making solid powders (mineral filters & color pigments) very water resistant and easily spreadable. Methicone does this by absorbing traces of water from the surface of pigments that is very useful for mineral sunscreens and makeup products. 

A vegetable-derived liquid that's described as "very substantive to lớn skin" by the manufacturer. It gives cushion and spreadability to lớn the formulas and functions as a pigment dispersing agent. It's great to lớn be used in lipsticks or to lớn create inorganic sunscreen (aka titanium dioxide/zinc oxide) dispersions.

A 100% plant derived, natural (Ecocert approved) multi-functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing properties, can work as a co-emulsifier (meaning that next to lớn other emulsifiers it can help water and oil to lớn mix)  and even more importantly has a strong antimicrobial activity. 

Thanks to lớn this last thing, it allows a lower percentage of traditional preservative or it might even be able to lớn completely replace them. 

It’s a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. 

The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to lớn keep your cosmetics không tính phí from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to lớn the finished product. It's a popular duo.

Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to lớn remain nice and stable for a longer time. It does sánh by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not sánh nice changes.

It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or less.

Also-called: Coenzyme Q10 | What-it-does: antioxidant

The chemically chopped up version of the big protein molecule, collagen. It is often derived from fish or bovine sources and works as a nice moisturizer and humectant that helps the skin to lớn hold onto water.  

To understand a bit more what Hydrolyzed Collagen is, you have to lớn know that proteins are large chains of amino acids connected with so-called peptide bonds. These bonds can be broken up when a water molecule is added and the resulting thing is a mix of shorter length amino acids, also called peptides. So Hydrolyzed Collagen is not really collagen, it is rather an undefined and varying mix of largish peptides. Based on a manufacturer's data, the whole, soluble collagen has an average molecular weight of 300 000 Da, while this chopped up mixture has an average MW of 12 000 Da (still pretty big). 

If you see a cosmetic product that claims that it has "Botox-like effect" then two things are almost certain: one, the product overpromises and two, it contains Argireline. 

So this one is the famous peptide that's marketed by its manufacturer as the "Botox in a jar". The basis for this claim is that it targets the same wrinkle forming mechanism (wrinkles caused by facial muscle movement) as Botox, but the way it works is very different. In addition, the extent to lớn which it can prevent muscles from contracting (and to lớn smooth wrinkles) is very different (otherwise why would anyone use still Botox?). 

Also-called: Fragrance, Parfum;Parfum/Fragrance | What-it-does: perfuming

It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben.

It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to lớn 1% worldwide. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic.